5 Days in Tbilisi — Wine, Sulphur Baths & Silk Road History

Your morning begins at Rooms Hotel Tbilisi, a former publishing house in the Vera district that now serves as the city’s creative heartbeat. After a breakfast of local honey and thick yogurt on the garden terrace, take a 10-minute taxi (roughly 5-7 GEL via the Bolt app) to the Abanotubani district. Here, the brick domes of the sulfur baths rise from the earth like giant beehives. For about 50 GEL, you can secure a private room for an hour; the smell of sulfur is pungent, but the skin-softening waters are the perfect antidote to jet lag. From the baths, a steep but rewarding climb leads you to Narikala Fortress, where the entire city unfolds beneath you in a chaotic, beautiful sprawl.

By midday, head toward the Dry Bridge Flea Market, a 15-minute walk along the river. This is a treasure trove of Soviet memorabilia, vintage cameras, and hand-painted daggers. Just across the street, the grand Rustaveli Avenue offers a sharp contrast with its neoclassical government buildings and high-end boutiques. For lunch, stop at Machakhela near Freedom Square. Order the Adjaruli Khachapuri—a boat-shaped bread filled with molten cheese and topped with a raw egg and a pat of butter. Use the bread crust to swirl the center into a rich, gooey dip.

As the afternoon sun softens, escape the city for a quick 20-minute drive to Mtskheta, the ancient capital. Visit the Svetitskhoveli Cathedral, a UNESCO site where the air is heavy with incense and the sound of polyphonic chanting often echoes off the 11th-century walls. If time permits, continue eastward for a taste of the Kakheti wine region’s heritage. Many local cellars offer tastings of wine fermented in Qvevri—large clay jars buried underground. The amber wine is tannic and complex, unlike anything produced in the West.

Return to Tbilisi for a sophisticated evening at Shavi Lomi (The Black Lion). Tucked away in a traditional courtyard, this restaurant is the pinnacle of modern Georgian fusion. Order the 'Gobi'—a large wooden bowl filled with various pkhali (vegetable pâtés), artisanal cheeses, and pickles meant for sharing. The atmosphere is cozy and eclectic, with mismatched vintage furniture and soft lighting. End your night with a slow stroll back to Vera, watching the Narikala Fortress glow gold against the dark Caucasian sky.

Tuesday is yours to peel back the layers of Tbilisi’s burgeoning arts scene. Start your morning in the Fabrika courtyard in the Marjanishvili district. This former Soviet sewing factory has been transformed into a multi-functional space filled with street art, cafes, and co-working hubs. Grab a cold brew at one of the outdoor tables and watch the city’s youth culture come to life. It’s a 20-minute walk from the city center, or a quick hop on the Metro to Marjanishvili station (0.50 GEL).

In the afternoon, cross back over the river to explore the Sololaki neighborhood. This area is famous for its 'Italian courtyards'—ornate, slightly crumbling 19th-century mansions with carved wooden balconies where neighbors still dry laundry and play backgammon. It’s a sensory experience of peeling paint, climbing vines, and the distant sound of a piano through an open window. For a late lunch, find a small basement 'dukani' and try the Lobio—spiced kidney beans served in a clay pot with mchadi (cornbread).

As evening approaches, take the funicular (8 GEL for a round trip) up to Mtatsminda Park. While the amusement park is nostalgic, the real draw is the panoramic view of the city lights. Have a glass of lemonade at the Funicular Restaurant complex and watch the sunset. The descent back into the city via the winding forest path is peaceful and offers a different perspective on the mountain that looms over the capital.

Dedicate your Wednesday to the spiritual and botanical wonders of the city. Begin at the Holy Trinity Cathedral (Sameba), one of the largest Orthodox churches in the world. The scale is breathtaking, and the scent of beeswax candles fills the massive golden interior. From here, it is a short taxi ride to the National Botanical Garden of Georgia, hidden behind the Narikala ridge. Walk the path to the waterfall—a cool, shaded oasis that feels miles away from the urban bustle.

For lunch, head to the rejuvenated Agmashenebeli Avenue. While the southern end is touristy, the northern section features stunning Art Nouveau architecture. Stop at a local bakery (purni) for a 'lobiani' (bean-filled bread) for just a few lari. Spend your afternoon at the Georgian National Museum on Rustaveli Avenue to see the 'Archaeological Treasury,' a stunning collection of pre-Christian gold jewelry that proves Georgia’s ancient title as the Land of the Golden Fleece.

Your evening should be spent in the hip neighborhood of Vake. This district is home to Vake Park and a plethora of upscale wine bars. Visit a specialized wine shop like Vino Underground, where the staff can walk you through the nuances of Saperavi grapes. The vibe here is academic yet passionate, a perfect place to discuss the day's discoveries over a board of local smoked cheeses and sourdough bread.

Thursday is a day for wandering without a map. Start in the Vera district, exploring the hilly backstreets behind your hotel. You’ll find hidden gems like the Wine Factory N1, a repurposed industrial space that now houses bars, restaurants, and a cinema. Grab a light pastry and a coffee at a local cafe and enjoy the slower pace of this residential neighborhood. The sound of children playing and the smell of jasmine in the spring are the hallmarks of Vera.

By mid-afternoon, take a taxi to Lisi Lake on the plateau above the city. This is where Tbilisians go to exercise and breathe fresh air. You can rent a bike or simply walk the 3-kilometer perimeter of the lake. The air is noticeably cooler here, and the views of the surrounding mountains are crisp. It’s a great spot to see a more modern, lifestyle-oriented side of Georgian life away from the historic center.

For dinner, head back toward the center to find a 'Supra' experience. While a full traditional banquet usually requires a large group, many restaurants like Barbarestan offer a refined take on historical recipes. The menu is based on a cookbook written by a 19th-century duchess, featuring delicate flavors like duck in blackberry sauce. The service is impeccable, and the atmosphere feels like stepping back into a 19th-century salon.

On your final day, revisit your favorite corners of the Old Town to pick up last-minute gifts. The blue-tiled Orbeliani Baths make for a stunning photo opportunity in the morning light. Walk over to the leaning Clock Tower of the Rezo Gabriadze Marionette Theater; every hour, an angel emerges to strike the bell. It is a whimsical, fairytale moment that captures the creative spirit of the city. For a final lunch, try the 'Chashushuli' (spicy beef stew) at a riverside cafe.

Spend the afternoon at the Open Air Museum of Ethnography. Located near Turtle Lake, this museum features traditional houses brought from every region of Georgia. It’s a walk through the country’s diverse architectural history in a single parkland setting. Afterward, take the cable car down from Turtle Lake to Vake for one last view of the city’s rooftops. The mechanical hum of the cable car and the wind through the windows provide a meditative end to your sightseeing.

Your final Georgian dinner should be a celebration of everything you’ve learned. Head to a lively spot with traditional music and dancing. Order a variety of dishes you haven't tried yet—perhaps 'Chkmeruli' (chicken in garlic sauce) or 'Elarji' (cheesy cornmeal). As the dancers perform the energetic, gravity-defying moves of the 'Khorumi,' raise a glass of Rkatsiteli and offer a toast to the 'Tamada' (toastmaster). The night ends with the warmth of the wine and the rhythmic beat of the doli drum echoing in your ears.